By Dele Onikoyi

Tatelier Designs might not be a household name yet, but they’re doing something worth paying attention to. The brand, led by designer Babatunde Oluwatobiloba Ruth, has been building a space where fashion supersedes trends and embraces personality, effort, and stories. You can tell there’s intention behind what they do, from how the clothes are made to the message being conveyed.

Their recent 2022 collection did not fail to portray that as well. It brings together clean shapes, a sense of freedom, and a lot of confidence. Nothing too overdone, just honest fashion that’s trying to do something a little different. You know that quote from Iris Apfel, “Great personal style is an extreme curiosity about yourself”. That’s the kind of energy the collection gives.

In this review, we’ll be looking at three standout pieces from the collection to decide if Tatelier is truly heading the game.

The Shape

It’s got that baby doll silhouette fitted around the bust; then it flares out generously from the waist. The design doesn’t hug the body, and it’s not trying to. The shape is roomy, allowing for comfort and ease of movement. This is a rare combo. The sleeves puff out at the top and taper toward the ends, giving it that soft, balanced look.

The Colour

Deep coppery brown. Not quite bronze. Not quite chocolate. Somewhere in between. It’s warm, earthy, and different from the usual blacks and reds you’d expect in a dress like this. It flatters darker skin beautifully, too. Something feels comforting about the colour,  like it belongs in your favourite café’s menu. Pretty unique, wouldn’t you agree?

The Neckline

The neckline is square, very structured, and very neat. It frames the chest area nicely without diving too low. You can wear this to brunch or an evening hangout and look put together. It also opens up space around the collarbones, so if you want to throw on a chunky necklace or keep it bare, it’s all on you.

The Volume

Let’s be honest; this dress has somebody. It’s not one of those flat A-lines. There’s a clear structure in the skirt, and that volume is intentional. It comes with a two-tier ruffle design at the bottom half, which adds bounce and flow. Imagine walking down a hallway and feeling it lightly swish against your legs. It probably makes you want to spin, just a little.

Despite its beauty and uniqueness, a few considerations could elevate the dress further.

• Fabric sheen: The satin used here is undeniably lush and eye-catching. But under natural lighting, that same sheen may become a double-edged sword. In photoshoots or well-lit studios, the reflective surface adds glamour. But in softer or uneven lighting, it could appear overly shiny, even harsh, and worse, every crease, fold, or brush of movement might become too visible. Satin– this reflective– tends to look tired quickly.

A solution? A fabric with a slightly more muted finish, perhaps a matte satin or duchess satin, would still offer richness and weight but with more elegance in motion and more resilience throughout the day. It would also allow the colour and structure to shine through.

• Fit around the bust and underarm: The construction around the upper torso is sculpted, yes, but it leans a little too close to stiff. Particularly where the puff sleeves join the bodice, there’s a tightness that looks like it might wear on the body over time. This close fit may restrict arm movement or cause bunching, especially if worn for long events. Visually, it creates tension where there should be softness.

A more generous, considerate armhole cut would ease pressure and allow the sleeve to float rather than feel anchored too tightly.

• Hem weight: The base of the dress is full and romantic, like a chocolate river mid-pour, but that fullness is not without its complications. As it stands, the hemline may puddle, especially for shorter wearers. This can affect movement and posture. A hem that’s too soft or collapses too easily loses that sculptural quality that the rest of the dress works hard to establish.

Adding a subtle structure like a hidden tulle could give the hem that poised finish. It would allow the dress to “hover” slightly off the ground, maintaining shape and sweep without the risk of dragging or wrinkling.

Overall, this dress isn’t experimental. What it is, though, is confident in its simplicity. It’s one of those dresses you reach for when you want to look like you made an effort… but not too much of an effort. You could wear it to a wedding, a fancy dinner, a photo shoot — anywhere you want to feel soft, feminine, and a little elevated without needing to explain yourself.

It’s not groundbreaking, but maybe it doesn’t need to be.

The Shape

The silhouette is long and commanding. It starts fitted at the top, from the neckline to the waist, then explodes into fullness from the hips down. And when we say fullness, we mean it doesn’t just rain; it pours. It’s like the skirt decided to become a waterfall. There’s volume, there’s drama, but not the chaotic kind. Everything is in place.

The upper bodice pulls in just enough at the waist to define the figure, and the skirt does the rest of the talking, giving that graceful, regal energy. It’s modest, but it’s not shy.

The Fabric

We’re back in satin territory, or at least something that mimics it. There’s a mild sheen, not as shiny as the first dress. The fabric has enough weight to hold that gathered fullness at the bottom without looking crumpled or tired. It’s got a crisp texture that catches shadows beautifully, especially along the pleats of the skirt. You just know this dress rustles luxuriously when it moves.

The Colour

This is burnt orange with purpose. A deep, clay-like hue that feels rooted, literally. Like the earth in the evening light. It’s not trying to be “bold” in the loud sense, but there’s depth to it. On deeper skin tones, this shade glows. It doesn’t clash; it complements. The kind of colour that doesn’t go out of style because it’s tied to nature and heritage.

The Volume

There’s no pretending here. This dress wants to take up space, and it does beautifully, too. The skirt gathers at the hip and flows down generously all the way to the floor. There’s an intentional puff to the base, so it doesn’t just fall; it settles gracefully like it knows it belongs in a museum or a royal hall. Or your next photoshoot.

Without a doubt, the dress is beautiful, as we can see. But wouldn’t we want it to be even better in terms of style, details, and fitting? Here are some improvements that could be made.

• Sleeve structure: The balloon sleeves are a strong feature; they give the dress air, movement, and a soft silhouette that balances the fullness below. But the seam at the shoulder stands a little too firmly, almost like it wasn’t entirely sure if it wanted to relax or stay sharp. That slight stiffness at the top of the sleeve takes away from the overall softness that the rest of the gown leans into. Switching the sleeve style to a dropped shoulder cut might lend a more effortless look. It would allow the puff to begin more organically, giving the entire top half of the gown a cleaner flow from neck to arm.
• Neckline finish: The modest and rounded neckline does its job quietly. But up close, it feels like something is missing, like the dress paused mid-sentence and forgot to finish the thought. There’s nothing wrong with keeping it simple, but even simplicity can be deliberate. Adding a small detail—say, clean piping in the same fabric or a faint row of tone-on-tone beading—would give the neckline polish. Just enough to say, “Yes, this part was considered too,” especially in close-up shots or in person, where every stitch is on display.

To crown it all, this dress is not casual. It doesn’t want to go out for brunch. It wants to stand still in the middle of an art gallery or walk slowly into a garden wedding where everyone admires it. It is tradition reimagined.

The Fabric

We’re dealing with a stretch-knit fabric here—something with weight and movement. It drapes, clings, and flows. The fabric absorbs light rather than bouncing it, giving the gown a more grounded feel. What’s worth noting? The fabric moves. That side slit isn’t just for show; it gives the dress a bit of swing when you walk.

The Colour

Okay. Blue and green. But not just any blue and green. This is deep ocean blue paired with fresh, springy green. It’s a bold choice, almost like the designer wanted to give life to the middle of the dress. The green panel is ruched and gathered, like a scrunched ribbon tied across the waist and hips. Do the colours work together? They’re not subtle, but that’s the point. The blue gives maturity; the green brings playfulness. Side by side, they feel like opposites on purpose, with just enough tension to be interesting.

The Sleeves

Short, fitted sleeves. They keep things simple. They’re the quietest part of the dress. No puff or flair. Just enough to cover the shoulders and stay out of the way. And that works because with all the drama happening in the middle, the top needed to take a step back.

The Neckline

High and round. It gives a clean, uninterrupted canvas at the top. It’s the kind of neckline that gives the whole look a sense of poise. It also balances the side slit, which adds a hint of daring at the bottom.

The Slit

Ah, yes, the curveball. The slit is high enough to be noticed but not so high that it screams. It adds a little flirtation to an otherwise covered silhouette. If you were worried this gown might be too safe, the slit says, “Don’t worry. I’ve got range.”

Overall, the dress is interesting. But as eye-catching as it is, a few refinements could be made to elevate its design and wearability:

• Waistline Construction

The ruched green panel is the loudest voice in the room, and that’s by design. But its current structure feels more like an afterthought than a seamless design decision. The transition from the deep blue bodice to the neon green midsection is stark, and because it’s set in so suddenly, it visually cuts the body in half. A softer transition would help it feel less like a bold insert, maybe by curving the seam where the fabrics meet. The panel should flatter the silhouette, not compete with it.

• Bust Fit and Drape

There’s a sense of restriction at the top that distracts from the gown’s otherwise clean lines. The bodice lies flat across the chest but seems slightly taut, especially around the upper bust and underarm area. That tension could become more noticeable with movement or over time if the wearer is seated or active. Adding princess seams in the fabric cut could improve comfort and allow for better shape retention.

The Tatelier collection commits to elegance. While a few design choices could be fine-tuned for better wearability and balance, they don’t overshadow the collection’s vision. Tartelier reminds us that fashion is about composition and carving identity through thread and form. In all, it’s a bold statement from a designer who is unafraid to take risks, and it’s one we’ll be watching closely.