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Hair we go

Angella Ajetunmobi
Hello there! I love your write-up in ALLURE/VANGUARD.
My front hair is very silky but the back is very dry, like cotton wool and thus affects me during the relaxing process. The front straightens immediately after application and gets burnt but the back is not even budging. At the end of the day, I end up with half done hair. On a daily basis, the back hair does not relax on my neck; it just curls up. Do you advise straightening with hot irons?

Secondly, what is the benefit of rolling the hair? I get a different result during shampooing without rolling, which leaves the hair shorter while the salon shampoo gives a different result.
Thanks, via text.

You have raised two issues- inadequate straightening as a result of a combination of 2 types of hair on your head and benefits of rolling.
It is very difficult to recommend a chemical straightening cream for hair I have never encountered. Ideally, you need to come forward for a consultation so that I can have a good look at your scalp and hair, take a bit of your hairdressing history before we narrow down the choice of cream.

But try this formula: apply the cream to the stubborn rear hair first and wait about 3 to 5 minutes before applying to those areas that tend to ‘relax’ easily. The general rule when straightening hair is to start with the hair that is most resistant to change. Remember that the relaxing agent starts to work when the head gives off heat; the top of the head is the first area that witnesses an increase in body temperature, hence you are getting perfect straightening at the front.

Alternatively, you could opt to have your next touch-up at angel’s studio HAIR CLINIC for professional results.
Rolling the hair is one of the ways we prevent breakage. Blow drying and using hot irons on your hair is not advisable because the effect of heat on the hair is to dry it. So you have  a scenario where your chemical straightening cream has first dried/fried the hair, then you complicate matters further with blow drying [more dryness] and ‘TONGING’ [yet more dryness]. This is why serious hairdressers will always encourage you to suffer the dryer especially on the day you have a touch-up, as a way of minimizing the risk of hair breaking or damaging.

Whatever you do, make sure you always have a bottle of neutralizing shampoo ready to remove all traces of chemicals from your hair. The best types are color-coded; this means that the shampoo suds will give off a particular color if the hair still has relaxing cream therein. One of the ways that our hair suffers damage is by incomplete evacuation of chemical. Can you imagine a situation where your hair is still sporting traces of a chemical that had been applied up to 3 weeks previously? Sometimes, when I shampoo a client weeks after a touch-up she has had elsewhere, they are shocked to find pink suds showing that the relaxing process was continuing.

Also, if you are experiencing discoloration, you must make sure that you never have a touch-up without neutralizing the cream out of the hair. Remember that this is the ONLY shampoo guaranteed to cleanse relaxing agents thoroughly out of the hair. If you are unable to find neutralizers, please text to find out about angel’s studio NEUTRALIZING SHAMPOO. This could be the first step to curtailing breakage by chemicals and ‘orange’ color associated with ‘PERMED’ hair.

This is the season when I get the most complaints about dry, stiff, coarse, brittle and breaking hair. There are things one could/should do at this time to improve the condition and texture of one’s hair so as to avoid premature breakage and/or damage.

? Hiding your hair away from sight for a while is a good idea especially if you do not have the time or energy to expend on it. Braiding or weaving [with or without extensions] are viable options; avoid tiny braids and twists, especially if you hope to retain your hairline. Alternatively, you could have a weave put in; do not leave any of your hair out of the weave, so that you can have even growth underneath the weave with no breakage whatsoever.

? If you do not fancy any ‘attachment’ on your hair, then arm yourself with enough moisturizing gear to quench the thirst of your hair, because what your hair needs more than ever at this time is moisture. Start with angel’s studio MOISTURIZING SHAMPOO moisturizing shampoo followed by a deep conditioning treatment.

Your aim is to lubricate the hair without drenching in oil. So your shampoo must not further strip your hair of its natural oils. Always do a post-shampoo treatment since that ensures your hair will retain any oils introduced during the ‘steaming’ process. Your conditioner must feel ‘rich’ but if you are unsure about what could be suitable, you may wish to consider a treatment from our range of angel’s studio CUSTOMIZED TREATMENT SYSTEM; you can now get one custom-made for your particular hair type at our studio in Lagos once a consultation defines your hair’s essential characteristics.

? Most importantly, do not use a towel to dry your hair; let it air-dry so that water can be absorbed in. Moisture is not oil or grease; do not drown your dry hair in oil. Go for light oil moisturizers that can be easily absorbed into the hair, and will not sit on the surface of the hair attracting more dirt to clean hair. While hair and scalp are still damp, apply a superior scalp cream such as angel’s studio FLAKE KONTROL scalp crème which will help to restore moisture and the pH balance of the hair. It will also aid growth by keeping scalp clean, clear and healthy. Use the scalp crème as often as you need but in the morning; please do not apply hair creams at night.

These new weaves are certainly flatter on the head after fixing because they are crafted by hand on a loom. This makes it economical since the process keeps weave-shedding to a minimum. Of course, this also means that no hair ever spoils. If your weave is removed with a razor and the stylist destroys your weft, you do not have to lose all the extensions. The hair can always be re-crafted so that you do not lose out entirely. So if your 15” weave is destroyed, after re-wefting, you definitely will not get a 15” line back. It all depends entirely on the damage inflicted by your stylist.

Now what you can do to make sure amateurs don’t handle and destroy your hand-weft weave is to first clarify that they have seen/encountered/handled this type of weave before. If they have not, I find that they are often insensitive to the expense you are screaming about; they cannot imagine that any weave-on exists for more than N2000 a bunch. Your stylist must appreciate what your extensions cost before they can handle it satisfactorily; if not, she/he will never understand why you say a razor should not be used to remove the weave.
You can repair your hand-weft weave if it has unraveled at angel’s studio HAIR CLINIC. Repairs are charged per line; but do not expect to get the same amount of hair back. Allow for shedding and wastage during the re-weft process.

n Angel’s studio
HAIR CLINIC Specializing in healthy
hair growth and maintenance

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