By Juliet Ebirim

Over the last decade, the popularity of Ankara fabric has grown beyond the continent, including among the African diaspora and African American communities in the USA. Beyond fashion, the unique tradition of naming patterns as they come into the market makes Ankara fabrics one of the best chronicles of historical and contemporary events, reflecting social trends or celebrating social rites of passage.

To pay homage to the rich tradition and vibrant colors of Ankara fabrics, Nigerian fashion designer and CEO of Roots & Runway, Aliyu Bala created the Awuli Collection 2023.

The collection highlights the rich tradition and vibrant colors of Ankara fabrics, while promoting sustainable fashion practices. It features classic Ankara patterns and a variety of silhouettes, including maxi-length palazzo pants, off-the-shoulder tops, and jumpsuits. The use of cotton, crepe, and organza fabrics adds textural interest and glamour.

Sustainability is a key focus of the Awuli Collection. The fashion industry has a significant environmental impact, and Bala is committed to using eco-friendly materials and practices. The Ankara fabric itself can be a sustainable choice, offering durability and reduced environmental impact.
Bala cites his love of color as a major inspiration for the collection. He believes the vibrancy of Ankara fabrics is best appreciated in its natural state.

“I have always been drawn to color, and owning an all-Ankara fabric collection satisfies that yearning for me. Even though I like black-and-white pictures, I feel a certain discontent when the vibrancy of Ankara fabrics is dulled using that effect.” As a fashion writer, I find that the various colors and patterns of these fabrics remind me of the beauty and intricacy that humans are capable of creating. With things I find beautiful and intricate, I am eager to learn their origin. I have a somewhat sentimental theory concerning our eager acceptance of wax print and our subsequent appropriation of it. This theory relates to the mutual experience of colonization in Nigeria and other parts of Africa.”

The Awuli Collection also celebrates the importance of Ankara fashion in Nigerian culture. Many Nigerian women prefer traditional Ankara attire with headwraps and accessories, showcasing their heritage and individuality. Bala’s designs prioritize comfort, elegance, and sophistication alongside cultural significance and sustainability.