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August 24, 2012

The Hair Series: Mad about the Dreads

By Morenike Taire

Dreadlocks were made popular by reggae legend Bob Marley, but it was not until the last decade that the hairdo became desirable, so much so that men and women both see it now not only as the epitome of convenience and afrocentrism but also high style. These folks about town speak about their relationship with their  hair and  what wearing dreadlock means to them.

To refer to Mrs Funke Akinyanju as a culture enthusiast would be an understatement. In her various roles as wife mother, philanthropist and businesswoman, she has settled on dreadlocks. Hers are tinted, shortish and cleverly “tousled”. She says a woman needs to be brave to wear dreadlocks.

What does brave mean?

I feel brave means doing what you decide to do. People like to do what other people are doing. They don’t want to step out of the box. That’s brave.

What is the significance of hair to a woman?

I think you have to define what you are happy with. It’s very important. If you want to have tons of Roman or Brazilian or whatever, women think men like women with long hair. I don’t know. If you are happy with that, fine. If you want to get a razor and shave off your hair and move around bald.

What is the relationship between a woman and her hair?

You hear all these things about a woman’s hair being her crowning glory. In those days European women used to grow their hair long and then as emancipation came they started cutting their hair— horror upon horror. When women got into work and started operating machines they couldn’t travel all over the place with long hair. I think the hair is a very personal thing. As for me I have to be comfortable with what I am wearing 99.9% of the time.

But would you say creative women are rather more partial to- not natural as much as African hair?

I think there is a move towards that. More women, if they are not locking their hair they are leaving it natural.

If you had a perm, that’s not artificial…

It’s not artificial but there are people who say they don’t want to put any more chemicals in their hair, they are going more for the natural look.

When did you decide to go dread?

Sometime ago, but I keep my hair short. If I had left it it would have grown long but  I don’t want to have anything around my neck. Been here, done that.

When did you start?

Do you know I can’t remember. It must be a good four, five years ago. Before that I’d done everything doable. My sister used to say, one day this hair is gonna fall out. I’ve done my own hair, I’ve done the wigs, the colours. I don’t like the weave on too much. Now, I’ve found what I like to do.

What are people’s reactions to your hair?

Refreshing. A lot of people walk up to me they love my hair here and abroad.

Some people want to wear dreadlocks in order to escape the salon but when they find out it’s just as much trouble locking and treating it they just give up

I guess so. I don’t think it’s a cop out. I still wash my hair, treat my hair and look after it.

Is it more expensive?

You are working it against what?because if you are going to buy a whole lot of Brazilian hair, no. I would say it’s cheaper. You wash your hair and then you steam it and tonging. That’s not cheap as well. I think everything depends on where you go. It depends on the overheads.

Dreadlocks Myth and Fact

Myth: You do not wash dreadlocks.

Hair must be dirty to dread.

truth: If you do not wash your hair it will stink. Dreadlocked hair needs to be washed regularly just like un-dreaded hair. You can wash dreads just as you would wash a sponge, by working the soap in and then squeezing and rinsing repeatedly to get all the soap out. Clean hair will actually lock up faster than dirty or oily hair.

Because nearly every soap and shampoo on the market contains residues it was thought that clean hair does not dread quickly, when in fact it is the residues (conditioners, moisturizers, builders and fragrance holders) in the soaps that prevent hair from locking up.

Myth: Simply not combing your hair is the only way to get nice dreads.

truth: This is called the neglect method. Under some circumstances simply not combing hair will make it dread. The best example of this is African-textured hair. Left alone, African hair will eventually dread. Unfortunately the results, although technically called dreads, are usually less than pleasing to the eye.

The hair forms giant matts at random all over the head. Some Caucasian hair, if it is curly enough, will also dread by neglect but the same problem exists. It takes several years for the hair to lock fully and when it does it generally looks un kept, kind of like you might expect hair to look after not combing it for a few years.

Myth: Only black people can have nice dreads. Nice dreads are high maintenance.

truth: While it is easier for black people to have nice smooth dreads it is completely possible for other hair textures to dread tightly and smoothly. Dreads are difficult to start and the first month is a pain, but as they tighten and mature they become virtually maintenance free. They look great all the time, all you have to do is keep them clean.

Myth: Natural dreads are those that are made by neglect.

truth: There are two types of natural dreadlocks. Those that are required by religion to be natural, and natural for you or I, which means non-chemically processed dreads.

If you are rastafarian or in some sects of middle eastern religions you are required to not interfere with the growth of your dreads. You have probably not seen many truly natural dreads as most of these religions also require that no one, not even your spouse in some cases, see your dreads. These truly natural dreads can be washed but they can not be cut trimmed or ripped in any way and no combing or products can be used to maintain them.

The second type of natural are those dreads that came to be without the use of any chemical proccesses. You can wash them, cut them, comb them, rip them, tie them and wax them as you like but they are started and grow naturally without any chemical dread perms or synthetic additions.

Myth: Rubberbands break hair and can thin dreadlocks.

truth: Rubberbands used correctly help roots and tips tighten, especially when dreads are new. If rubberbands are applied too tightly they can compress an area of the dread and cause a thin spot. However, proper tension will speed the locking process and prevent loose hairs especially when washing newer dreads.

Myth: Dreads damage your scalp and can lead to thinning hair.

truth: If cared for using the proper methods and products dreadlocks are actually a very healthy hairstyle. Natural dreads do not require the use of any chemical processes making them better for your scalp than any hair style that requires your hair to be chemically permed or straightened. The residue free soaps that dreadlocks are washed in actually increase hair growth and cause hair to grow thicker and faster..

Myth: If you decide you no longer want dreads you have to shave your head.

truth: You have to cut dreads to take them out but you do not have to shave your head. You can usually leave at least 2 inches of hair when you cut the dreads, so your hair will be short, but not shaved.

Myth: Mayonnaise, Honey, Toothpaste, Glue, Rubber Cement, Mud, Chewing Gum, Peanut Butter, Shea Butter, Candle Wax and Hair Gel all work great for starting dreadlocks.

truth: People will try anything but there are products that do the job fast, clean, and with no danger to your scalp or furniture.

Myth: Products that say it works for dreads will work for starting dreadlocks.

truth: Many products on the market that mention they work for dreadlocks are actually intended to add shine and fragrance and to make corn rows look neater but they don’t actually help the dreading process at all. The majority of these shine waxes are made with petroleum, a lubricant.

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