By Dayo Akinbode Reiman

In a surprising recent turn of events, a childhood friend’s request led to a remarkable exploration of one of my newly added Lagos cultural treasures. Professor Morenike Ukpong, a childhood friend, reached out to me and informed me about the visit of her friend, Guillermo to Nigeria.

Guillermo who recently flew into Lagos from Spain was on his way to visit Morenike in the rural town of Ile- Ife, an ancient city in the South Western part of Nigeria. However, first, he wanted to explore Lagos, the commercial capital of Nigeria.

That was how I became involved in guiding Guillermo through Lagos. I became his designated tour guide showing off my city.

I reached out to him on the phone and he expressed an eagerness to delve into the history, culture, cuisine, and music of Lagos. I proposed an adventure-packed itinerary which included visits to the Lagos Freedom Park, Nike Art Gallery, the Elegushi Beach, Lekki Crafts Market and Lekki Conservation Centre. But being an academic researcher, Guillermo knew exactly what he wanted to see. “No beaches for me” he responded when he received my itinerary. “ I would rather have lunch in a typical Nigerian restaurant and also pay a visit to the Fela Museum and the Fela’s Afrikan Shrine”. I gave him a pointed look and asked “The Fela’s Afrikan Shrine?” My heart skipped a bit when he responded in the affirmative.

The Fela’s African Shrine is well known to me. Though called a Shrine, the venue is a fenced off community comprising the fans of Fela Kuti. This legendary establishment, established by the late Afrobeat maestro Fela Kuti, serves as a living tribute to his legacy and artistic vision. The location holds a familiar presence for me.

I intentionally steer clear of the street on which the shrine is located. I refrain from driving, cycling, running, or even walking by the Shrine. This avoidance is rooted in my upbringing, as I have long connected the Shrine with notions of drugs, weeds, and various vices that I consider detrimental.

However, before we embarked on our anticipated tour, we recharged ourselves at a charming local restaurant known as Calabar Kitchen, nestled in the vibrant Ikeja district of Lagos. I was genuinely impressed by Guillermo’s knowledge of Nigerian cuisine and his familiarity with our traditional dishes.

His curiosity about the culinary offerings grew as he examined the menu. He inquired if there were any other options beyond the usual array of traditional Nigerian ‘swallows” which include starchy foods like Amala, Pounded Yam, Fufu, Semovita and Eba. These swallows are typically enjoyed by dipping them into various types of soups, creating a harmonious blend of flavors and textures.

Having already savored Amala, Pounded Yam and Eba on previous occasions, he sought a new experience and ultimately opted for Semovita, a corn-based swallow that I introduced to him. Meanwhile I chose my favorite Pounded Yam. Our choice of accompaniments included a plate of succulent catfish and a serving of the delectable Edikaikong soup, a cherished Calabar local delicacy.

The restaurant must have derived the name Calabar Kitchen from their expertise in making delicacies from Calabar, a city in the South Southern part of the country. With each bite, Guillermo’s enthusiasm for the authentic flavors of our country shone through, and he couldn’t help but marvel at how the fish melted in his mouth. Our lunchtime rendezvous turned into an unforgettable affair, with Guillermo’s genuine appreciation for the meal evident in his repeated praises.

In a spontaneous and heartfelt gesture, Guillermo even conducted a live Instagram broadcast, passionately commending the restaurant’s exquisite offerings. “If you find yourself in Lagos and yearn for an authentic taste of local cuisine, let me assure you that we highly recommend the Calabar Kitchen. Your taste buds will be in for a memorable treat”.

Influenced by my negative perceptions associated with Fela and his Afrikan Shrine, I attempted to dissuade Guillermo from visiting the shrine.

“Let’s go to the Fela Museum before going to Fela’s Afrikan Shrine” I said after our meal. I hoped the Museum rather than the Shrine would satisfy Guillermo’s desire to experience Fela. As fate would have it, our taxi took us to the Afrikan Shrine instead of the Museum.

“The Fela Museum is in a different location from the Fela Afrikan Shrine and is not open to the public on Saturdays and Sundays” we were informed by the Security guard at the Fela Afrikan Shrine. We were left with no choice other than to proceed inside the Shrine. Guillermo’s desire to experience the Fela Afrika Shrine’s vibrant musical legacy came to pass.

Upon stepping into the Afrikan Shrine, a tumult of emotions surged through me. The unfolding scene was utterly mesmerizing. Dominating the view was a grand billboard featuring the iconic Fela Kuti, captured in his renowned hands-up pose, extending a warm greeting to all who entered.

The billboard almost beckoned us to replicate the pose for a photo, which we gladly obliged. As I posed for a photo the initial tendrils of anxiety that had clung to me began to dissolve, replaced by a sense of newfound ease and curiosity.

A gracious lady welcomed us, leading the way as she introduced us to the wonders of the Shrine. We ended our tour in the lounge, where we settled in with our chosen beverages.

Guillermo opted for a refreshing can of beer, while I savored a bottle of yogurt. The people we encountered throughout our tour exuded warmth and hospitality, setting the tone for a delightful experience. Amidst our exploration, numerous picturesque moments emerged, offering ample opportunities for photographs.

The community inside the Fela’s Afrikan Shrine which was previously colored by negative connotations in my mind turned out to be quite the polar opposite. Before me unfolded a haven of order and inclusiveness, inviting all to partake.

The landscape was adorned with an assortment of delights in the form of souvenir shops, bustling bars, inviting food joints , a grand main stage, a spacious and colorful lounge, a revered shrine, and even an inviting library. The different units felt like pieces of a vivid puzzle forming a tapestry of community and cultural festivity. The melodies that permeated the air resonated with unity and a true embodiment of shared harmony.

Of all the spaces we visited, the library resonated with me most deeply. The entrance, crafted from intricately carved wood, beckoned us to walk inside. Within, the walls adorned with shattered glass exuded artistic allure, while the African-inspired furnishings, intricately carved, evoked memories of my grandfather’s village abode.

The ambiance was so very cozy. As I settled in, a sense of relaxation washed over me, and a joyful contentment enveloped me in the library’s embrace. Though I did not touch a single one of the books that lined the walls, I was content to just sit down and wonder about who originally owned the books.

I made a silent commitment to return to this new found haven, a realm suffused with the essence of Africa’s heritage and magic. Time slipped away unnoticed, and Guillermo gently brought my attention to the encroaching evening and our impending departure.

As a memento of the experience, he also acquired a T-shirt, a tangible reminder of the meaningful moments we shared during our visit.

This eye-opening encounter was a poignant reminder to never make judgements based on stereotypes. This visit to the Shrine shattered my preconceived notions, revealing a space where art, history, and cultural appreciation converged. Guillermo’s interest in Fela Kuti’s legacy allowed me to see beyond my biases and embrace the beauty of diversity and open-mindedness.

The day’s adventure was a testament to my city’s multifaceted identity and the power of exploring with an open heart. The Fela Kuti Afrikan Shrine taught me that true understanding blossoms when we challenge our assumptions and let go of preconceived judgments. Lagos, you have taught me a lesson I will carry with me forever.